Falling for Nova Scotia & Maine
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia Canada
Falling for Nova Scotia and Maine
This September we took a slow-paced, two-week road trip to Nova Scotia, followed by a visit to Bar Harbor Maine. Come for the beauty, recreation, genuine hospitality, and the seafood.
Nova Scotia is an Atlantic Maritime province of Canada with a population of just over 450,000. For 150 years, French and British forces sought control over the region – which was also settled in parts by Scots and Americans. Long before European explorers and settlers, the land was home to many native peoples including the Mi’kma’ki. The enduring presence of the Mi’kmaq is visible across the province today, and an important part of our journey was learning about their heritage and the influences of those who came to this land.
Getting to the capital of Nova Scotia, Halifax, was an easy nonstop flight from Philadelphia. We rented a car at the airport – the car would serve as our transportation all the way around the province, as Nova Scotia is not well served by public transport. An unexpected but lovely part of the trip was how few cars we encountered on the highways – at some points we didn’t see another car for miles. If you worry about heavy traffic – come to Nova Scotia for a most enjoyable experience.
Where we stayed, visited, and some of the places we ate!
Halifax – The Sutton Place Hotel Halifax
We began our trip in Halifax, then circled back for a one-night stay after our visit to Cape Breton. The city is built on a hill, and the Sutton Place hotel sits right beside the Citadel National Historic site where you walk the grounds and visit the living history museum. Other noteworthy museums include the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, with its collection of Titanic shipwreck artifacts, as Halifax played a major role in the recovery efforts of the tragic sinking in 1912. As you stroll along the harbor, enter the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. This museum contains works by Maud Lewis, whose art will be very familiar even if you don’t instantly recognize her name. Be sure to see the exhibit containing her actual tiny 12x14 foot house that was fully restored and moved to the museum. Many day trips are an easy drive from Halifax – not to be missed is the iconic Peggy’s Cove with its light house - considered the most photographed in all of Canada. But do go early in the morning to have the best experience.
The food in downtown Halifax was excellent. In addition to the wonderful meals at the listed restaurants, we enjoyed many of the fabulous coffee shops in town – sampling the tasty scones and other baked goods.
Restaurants:
Lunenburg – Lunenburg Arms
The easy drive from Halifax to Lunenburg is about 60 miles, but we took our time and stopped in Mahone Bay along the way. Mahone Bay is a very picturesque, historic coastal town with cute shops. Lunenburg (pronounced LOO-nen-burg) is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage site with beautiful historic houses overlooking an active harbor. You can stay in one of the amazing homes on leafy streets; we chose to stay at the Lunenburg Arms right on the harbor with easy walking to shops and restaurants. Check out the schedule for the Bluenose II – Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador to see if it will be docked during your stay. Visit the Fisheries Museum, take a walking tour, and sample wonderful sea food. We booked a scenic sailing tour with Star Charters and had the opportunity to try our hand at hoisting the sails.
Restaurants:
Annapolis Royal – Blackwood's Bread & Roses Inn and Wolfville – Tattingstone Inn
From Lunenburg we headed west to Annapolis Royal. We stopped at Kejimkujik National Park and Historic Site - a Mi'kmaq cultural forested landscape. The Royal Astronomical Society of Canada has designated the inland portion of the park a national dark-sky preserve, with some of the best night sky viewing conditions in southern Canada. Next time we would linger and perhaps spend a night right in the park. Before arriving in Annapolis Royal, we made a detour to the famous town of Digby – known as the “Scallop Capitol of the World.” Indeed, from our patio seats we watched the trawlers bringing in lunch. Annapolis Royal is a small town – home to the Fort Anne and Port-Royal National Historic sites. Walk or bike along the 110 km Harvest Moon Trailway that begins in Annapolis Royal and ends in Wolfville. You get views of a portion of the Bay of Fundy, which in areas have some of the highest tides in the world. Our hosts at the Blackwood’s Bread & Roses Inn were welcoming; you felt as friends spending the night in this 1880’s Queen Anne Revival house.
Wolfville is a wine lovers paradise. Our hotel arranged a half-day wine tour for us, visiting Blomidon Estate Winery, L’Acadie Vineyards, and Benjamin Bridge. Tidal Bay wine, Nova Scotia’s signature and first official wine appellation launched in 2012, is present on almost every menu, and we ordered it more times than not. We spent a day walking the Harvest Moon Trailway with stops at the Grand Pré National Historic Site, where you will learn about the tragic mass deportation of the Acadians, and its connection to the Cajuns in Louisiana. Right from the trail we walked through the vineyards of Lightfoot & Wolfville for a great lunch. Too many vineyards and not enough days!
Restaurants:
· Composé
· Le Caveau Restaurant at Grand Pré Winery
· Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards
Baddeck – The Inverary Resort
The drive from Wolfville to Baddeck (pronounced buh-DECK) in Cape Breton was four hours with a stop for lunch in the memorably named town of Antigonish. We chose The Inverary Resort as home base for the beginning and end of our exploration of the Cabot Trail – an incredibly scenic loop (185 miles) that circles northern Nova Scotia. Due to rough seas, we couldn’t take the much-touted puffin tour (book ahead at Donelda’s Puffin Boat Tours). Spend a few hours learning about the inventions of Baddeck’s most famous resident at the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site.
Restaurants:
· Lakeside Restaurant – at the Resort
Chéticamp – The Archie & Isidore Hotel
Continuing our journey to the scenic Cabot Trail we stayed one night in the French-speaking town of Chéticamp (pronounced in English SHET-ih-kamp, and in Acadian French sha-tee-KAHN). Check out the Les Trois Pignons Cultural Center displaying wonderful tapestries with information about Arcadian culture. The Archie & Isidore is a sweet hotel where the owners have thought of everything to make your stay enjoyable (top toiletries and free candy bars!) with self-check-in and check-out. On a shorter itinerary you could visit Chéticamp without an overnight stay.
We drove the Cabot Trail in the clockwise direction, but better views can be had driving the route counterclockwise. The views are stunning regardless. Book in advance to visit the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and hike the Skyline Trail, with its unusual moose enclosures!
Restaurant:
Ingonish – Keltic Resort
The Keltic Resort sits on the very edge of the Park and offers ocean-side accommodations. The Resort bar hosts live music, and sitting outside at the restaurant gives you the feeling of being on a cruise ship with fantastic water views. Book your table in advance as it a very popular spot for celebrations. Driving back on the Cabot Trail we visited many artisan studios including the fun Groovy Goat Farm, Cabotto Chocolates, and the Glass Artisans Studio & Gallery.
Restaurants:
Bar Harbor, Maine – Acacia House Inn
From Halifax we journeyed to Yarmouth, the historic port town in southwestern Nova Scotia. The CAT ferry operates from Yarmouth (only in season) for a pleasant 3.5-hour journey to Bar Harbor, Maine. Passports required on entering the US. Bar Harbor’s downtown was lively with many tourists, shops, and restaurants. Luckily, we were visiting locals who knew all the best hidden gems, and lake swimming spots. Be sure to visit Acadia National Park, including Wild Gardens of Acadia, and Jordan Pond. The Acacia House Inn is tucked on a side street near the heart of town – with homemade goodies for breakfast and afternoon tea. The blueberries!!! Rounding out our trip of seafood, we ventured to a true lobster pound. A not to be missed experience in Nova Scotia and Maine! We are already dreaming about next time.
Restaurants:
